We love our pet bunny, Zorro. He’s no different than our cats or dog companions we’ve had when it comes to the impact and positive benefits he brings to our lives. But as much as we absolutely adore him, I think it’s really important for people to understand that rabbits aren’t for everyone. In fact, they need much more than most people assume. To be a good pet parent is to understand an animal’s basic needs and natural expressions. To say rabbits are a starter pet perfect for young kids is inherently false. They have long life spans and require daily care. Plus, they can be fragile and if illness isn’t caught right away, by the time they show they are unwell it may be too late. That’s why it’s important to do your research before you welcome any pet home and that includes understanding common mistakes or misconceptions when it comes to keeping a pet bunny.
Whether you already have a bunny or are contemplating bringing one (or two) home, I’ve compiled what I believe are 10 of the most common mistakes made when it comes to providing the best care for your pet.
1. Too Small a Cage
Rabbits need space. Lots of it. I remember growing up and seeing all sorts of “pocket pets” kept in cages the size of litter boxes…or sometimes even smaller. What a miserable existence. Then people wonder why their pets aren’t more entertaining…well, of course, not. You wouldn’t have much of a personality either if you were stuck in the equivalent of a porta potty your whole life.
The minimum acceptable cage requirements, as suggested by most humane societies and animal welfare organizations, is a 4’x4′ cage (that’s 16 square feet) for one rabbit. Of course, with 2 or more, you’ll need more space. Rabbits are curious and playful creatures, so this still doesn’t give them much space to really get some zoomies out. As such, rabbits really should have additional free/floor time in a bunny proofed space for a couple hours each day if possible.
When we first adopted Zorro we started with a standard 4×4′ x-pen. This worked fine and allowed us to ensure he had his litter training down solid before we opened up the house more to him. Plus, it’s nice that you can configure them into different shapes to best match your space. I actually recommend having an x-pen, whether or not you intend to use it as a “cage”, as they are so handy if you need to temporarily corral your bunny for medical reasons, litter training, blocking off access to certain areas or outdoor time, etc..
As we began to grow confident that Zorro was sticking to his litter box, we slowly let him have more freedom to explore. Of course, as we expanded his territory and began letting him out of his x-pen that presented new challenges….bunny proofing.
2. Insufficient Bunny Proofing
Rabbits love to chew. Zorro was no exception. He quickly went about exploring his new digs as we opened up his cage, and part of that exploration included trying to taste test whatever was in his path. I had done the basics of rabbit proofing- wrapping cords (these are awesome to keep your bunnies safe from electric shock, by the way, though a bit time consuming to wrap) and making sure there was nothing he could knock over/get stuck in. What I failed to realize is just how much rabbits like to burrow too.
Furniture? So much fun to “dig” under….or through. Yikes. I don’t know what it was about my daughter’s dresser, but Zorro wanted under. He could fit through the bottom of the dresser, but…it wasn’t quite to his liking, so he began to attempt to open up a bigger passage way and see if he could dig through the floor. My poor furniture. I tried these furniture blockers, placed just in front of where he was chewing, and it’s completely resolved the issue. While I would prefer not having to use them…I mean, they aren’t the greatest for room aesthetics…they do keep my furniture safe from rabbit teeth and also keep Zorro from getting into trouble underneath the furniture.
If you plan on letting your bunny roam around a room with hiding spots under couches, beds or other furniture pieces it’s good to take note if there are places they can get their heads stuck in their exploration attempts, other things they may chew that are out of sight/out of mind, etc., and (if necessary) block them from your rabbit.
3. Not Providing Enough Mental Stimulation
Similar to dogs or other pets, your bunny is a lot less likely to cause destruction to your home if they have enough mental stimulation and safe things to engage with. This can be a number of things- regular interaction with you, another bunny companion, toys and safe things to chew and dig through.
Rabbits love to chew and dig! Plus it’s great to wear down those ever-growing chompers and keep the nails filed a bit too. I like to provide apple branches for Zorro to chew. Rabbits love apple branches! I also like to occasionally provide dig boxes- boxes filled with different materials that he can dig through (either for fun, or to find snacks). Usually, I’ll fill a box with hay and hide some treats throughout. Occasionally it may be shredded paper in the box. In the winter, I’ve brought in large containers full of snow. Either way, Zorro loves them all!
Some people use cat toys and scratchers for rabbits. While scratching cardboards might be good for their nails, you do need to be careful with these sorts of toys, as many of the cardboard pieces are glued together and aren’t designed to be chewed at…something a rabbit will inevitably do.
One of Zorro’s favourite things to do is zoom through tunnels. We have an assortment of them that we rotate through to change things up. We also feed his pellets in a treat ball that he has to push around to slowly get his food. Otherwise, we also use a snuffle mat for pellets and other treats. There’s all sorts of different ways to keep a bunny’s mind sharp and curious! Plus it’s good exercise for a rabbit to work for their food.
4. Providing Proper Nutrition
Speaking of food, it is extremely important you understand that the majority of rabbit’s diet should come from forage. In the case of our pet bunnies, that means hay. Hay keeps their guts moving and even relatively brief periods without food moving through their digestive system can cause serious health concerns, or even death. Never withhold food from a bunny (unless specifically directed to by your rabbit savvy vet)!
Besides hay, a good rabbit pellet will keep your furry friend in good health. While we started off feeding Oxbow Adult Rabbit food, we weren’t completely happy with the soy, oils and sugars included. We are now working on switching over to Sherwood pellets, but they’re hard to find in our area.
Whatever pellet you choose, avoid ones that have colourful bits. Your rabbit food should be uniform so they can’t pick and choose what to eat. As well, mature rabbits must have a pellet that is primarily timothy hay based. Alfalfa can cause urinary tract issues.
5. Not Providing Enough Hay
Related to nutrition- hay is the absolute most important part of your rabbit’s diet and should be available at all times. Purchasing hay at the pet store can be expensive, but feeding your bunny doesn’t need to be.
Top tip: If you can source horse hay (commonly available at livestock feed stores), you can generally purchase a whole 50 lb bale of hay for less than $10. We grow our own hay here, so we’re fortunate to always have plenty of long stem fibre for all of our friends.
6. Not Providing an Appropriate Litter Box
All that fibre keeps things moving….all day long. As bunnies can be readily litter trained, you will make your life a lot easier if you provide a comfortable and appropriate place for your rabbit to do their business. I list my favourite litter box on my Rabbit Litter Box Review post here. I still do use the grated stainless steel litterbox. Many people have misconceptions that rabbits cannot use a steel litter pan or feel that they are cruel. I completely disagree. Perhaps images of rabbits being lined up in those old factory-style cages with open bottoms come to mind. Modern grated litter boxes are vastly different from hardware cloth-styled cages. The litter box we use has wide, smooth grates that are comfortable to touch (and put weight on). Nothing digs into your skin and it is incredibly hygienic and easy to clean. Our bunny clearly seems comfortable, considering he has substantial square footage he can laze about in and he often chooses to nap in his litter box.
I chose to use a grated litter box as I find them more hygienic and appreciate having less hay wasted (or rabbits consuming soiled feed). If you do not want to use a grated box, there are lots of options. Many people just use a cat litter pan filled with rabbit safe bedding.
No matter what you choose, make sure your litter box is wide enough for your bunny to comfortably sit, turn and even lie down in it. If you have multiple bunnies you will need a rather large litter or, ideally, multiple boxes.
Top tip: To encourage litter box usage put your bunny’s hay over/in the litterbox. Rabbits spend a lot of time eating hay and will inevitably poop where they sit. The longer they are used to doing this, the more ingrained it is for them to go to the box to poop (or pee).
7. Handling Incorrectly
Most rabbits do not like being held. They are prey animals and it makes them feel quite vulnerable, especially the sensation of their feet being off the floor. If you must pick up your rabbit, it is very important to hold them securely and firmly to avoid panic and potential injury to your bunny from them attempting to leap out of your arms.
When preparing to hold your rabbit (or anytime, really) you will want to talk quietly and calmly to them. Give them a few pets until they relax. Then gently scoop them up- one hand supporting them at their chest and the other holding them under their bottom and supporting their back feet.
Just because rabbits don’t like being held doesn’t mean they don’t love your company! Rabbits often love it when you spend time bonding with them by stroking their heads gently, massaging their ears and body and just hanging out.
Zorro loves to hop up on my lap now that we’ve established some trust and I try to encourage this behaviour by providing bunny-safe treats when he’s on my lap to show that this sort of contact is OK and safe.
8. Not Giving Time to Decompress
Speaking of handling, bringing a rabbit to a new home or place can be very stressful to them. They are prey animals, after all, and can be more sensitive to stressful situations than other animals. This is partly why rabbits aren’t always a good fit for young kids.
It can take anywhere from a few days to a few months for a new bunny to settle into a new home and routine. Keeping their space calm and quiet and allowing your bunny to be the one to initiate most interactions will help set you up for success and allow your bunny to gain confidence as they adapt.
It is perfectly normal for rabbits to be shy and not necessarily engage with their new people at first. Give them time, talk gently, and offer bunny-safe treats to help build trust. When your bunny is approaching you readily for snacks, it’s a good time to start offering gentle pets and scratches.
You know a bunny is feeling safe and comfortable when they flop down, all sprawled out across the floor.
9. Unsafe Outdoor Environments
While it may be common to keep rabbits in outdoor spaces across the United Kingdom, the North American climate (and predators) make this much more difficult to do safely. I’m not going to get into the details on this post of what would be needed to keep your bunny outside permanently, in a safe and humane manner (as the list would be extensive), but wanted to mention a few tips to keep your bunny safe if you want them to enjoy some grass or sunshine for a couple hours here and there.
No matter how long you have your rabbit outside, be aware that they are prime victims for many predator attacks- including hawks and other aerial predators. As such, they should have a pen with a roof over it provided. Foxes and coyotes, etc. can easily get into most pens and can be brazen during the day to snatch an easy meal. As such, I don’t recommend keeping your bunny outside unattended.
Not only will certain predators dig under a cage to get at your rabbit, but rabbits can also readily dig to get out of an enclosure. Therefore, if you’re not actively watching your pet, you’re also going to need to ensure that you have hardware cloth sunk under the ground where your outdoor rabbit enclosure is so they don’t dig their way out.
As rabbits can also be vulnerable to heat stress, it is paramount they always have shade available to them. As well, be aware that rabbits are susceptible to Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus 2 (RHDV2), which is highly fatal. It is a good idea to keep rabbits away from areas wild rabbits roam because of this, though realistically it can be contracted through many different sources (including your hay). There is a vaccination available for rabbits to help protect against this deadly virus.
10. Not Having a Rabbit Savvy Vet Lined Up
Speaking of RHDV2, this disease can be found in the environment and be carried in on clothing, shoes, food, etc.. It is expected that this virus will soon become endemic in North America- a concerning thought considering the staggering fatality rate!
Therefore, it’s important to have an exotic vet who specializes in rabbit care, lined up. They are able to provide vaccination recommendations to keep your bunny safe, while also allowing you access to more urgent care should your bunny need medical attention- once illnesses are spotted, bunnies can unfortunately decline rapidly- making a qualified veterinarian a very important asset to have.
Another consideration is that rabbits who are unaltered (not spayed or neutered), are more prone to certain health conditions as well as habits that do not translate well to house pets- spraying, issues with litter training, behavioural issues, etc.. That’s why it’s strongly recommended to ensure your bunny is altered.
As rabbit medical treatment is generally vastly different than cats or dogs, most veterinarians cannot effectively treat rabbits and may not be able to safely operate on them. If you are struggling to find a qualified exotics veterinarian, you may wish to reach out to your local rabbit sanctuary for guidance, or you can also use the search function here.
Final Note
As you can see, there are many considerations when choosing to have a pet rabbit. This list is just scratching the surface. If you are considering adding a bunny to your family, please make sure you do your research to ensure it’s a good fit for your lifestyle. Should you decide it is, please check out your closest rabbit sanctuary or humane society. There are so many fantastic rabbits needing homes, and adopted bunnies will quite often be spayed or neutered too and often have litter box skills started, saving you time and money.
I hope this information gave you some new knowledge and thoughts to consider. Should you adopt a bunny, I wish you many happy years together!
Discover more from The Gentle Table
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
Extremely well written with so much information to help people make an informed decision on whether a bunny is a good fit for them. Your empathy and understanding for animals needs is evident and appreciated.